Visual Typology of Twisted or Plaited Viking Age -Rings. Part 2.

Legend:  Visual Typology of Viking Age
Finger-, Arm-, and Neck-Rings, Figure 1.
This is Part 2 of my blog post series on the visual Typology I've worked on for twisted and/or plaited Viking Age (VA) Finger-Rings, Arm-Rings, and Neck-Rings (-Rings). In this post I will be covering the Legend of my visual typology so that the examples I post in my third blog post will make more sense.

Part 1 covered the most important elements, the metal rods and/or wire they forged and then twisted and/or plaited to form their -Rings.


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Legend:  Visual Typology of Viking Age Finger-, Arm-, and Neck-Rings, Figure 1

The examples are shown as Cross-Sections to better illustrate the various parts.


SETS: Are usually 2 or 3 Strands, but can be more, of Wire or Rod; most often Twisted together Clockwise. Rods can be tapered at the ends so that the middle is the thickest/widest point.

Example shown. SET  1 x 2, Twisted Clockwise 


BUNDLES: Are usually 2 or 3 Sets, but can be more; most often Plaited together Counter Clockwise.

Example shown. BUNDLE  1 x 2, Plaited Counter Clockwise


Embellishments: Are optional decorative elements for Sets or Bundles, and they are made using Wires of a much smaller diameter than the primary ones used to make the Sets. They are usually either 1 Beaded Wire or made up of 1 or 2 Round Wires. When there are 2 or more Wires they are most often Twisted together Clockwise. 

Embellishments are seated in the 'valleys' created when the Sets are Twisted or the Bundles are Plaited. This means that the same number of Embellishment Wires are used as there are Strands in the Set, or the number of Sets in the Bundle.


Please Note:
Currently, there is no formal descriptive nomenclature to define this based on Ted Bouck's research and networking across the globe, as well as in my own research. My definitions are based on the ones developed by Ted Bouck, which I agree with, he will more fully define them in the future. Please refer to his document, "The processes used to make a twisted or plaited Viking Age "style" armring." Definitions used with permission from Ted Bouck who retails full Copyrights.


All graphics of my Visual Typology of twisted and/or plaited Viking Age Finger-Rings, Arm-Rings, and Neck-Rings are Copyrighted by me.

Visual Typology of Twisted or Plaited Viking Age -Rings. Part 1.

Various Shapes of Forged Wire or Rod
for Viking Age -Rings, Figure 1.
This is Part 1 of my blog post series on the visual Typology I've worked on for twisted and/or plaited Viking Age (VA) Finger-Rings, Arm-Rings, and Neck-Rings (-Rings). 

In this post I will be covering the most important elements, the metal rods and/or wire they forged and then twisted and/or plaited to form their -Rings.


[IMAGE]
Various Shapes of Forged Wire or Rod for Viking Age -Rings, Figure 1.

The extant finds are predominately made of Gold or Silver (sometimes referred to as Fine Silver) as well Gold Alloys (23 Karats and below) or Silver Alloys.  There are also some -Rings identified as 'Copper Alloy' or Bronze

Unfortunately, the majority have NOT been tested to determine their exact metallic compositions. Somewhat vague terms tend to be used, which can cause confusion, usually based on how they look.

Example, 'Copper Alloys' could mean any of the various Brass(es) or Bronze(s) we use today, but they are referring to Brass. 


Non-Modern Labels for 'Copper Alloys'

The blanket term 'Copper Alloy' is used within Archaeology to label and encompass a variety of Brass items. The main component of Brass is Copper (Cu) and its secondary one is Zinc (Zn). Even if this alloy is referred to as 'Bronze' it is still 'Brass' because it contains Zinc (Zn) and not Tin (Sn). 

Bronze is an alloy of Copper (Cu) and Tin (Sn). This blanket term does not specify the percentages of either element in the alloy, this can also be seen with the above term used for a Brass, 'Copper Alloy'.


Copper Alloy =  Brass = Copper (Cu) and Zinc (Zn)

                          Bronze = Copper (Cu) and Tin (Sn)


The Copper Development Association (CDA)

The Copper Development Association (CDA) is an international association that sets the standards for Copper and Copper alloys. They do this by creating internationally recognised ID code numbers that should be strictly followed when using their ID Codes to avoid confusion. 

For example Nickel Silver's CDA code number can be written in any of the following formats: 
CDA#752, CDA #752, CDA 752 or Alloy 752, etc. This specifically identified Copper alloy contain 65% Copper (Cu), 17% Zinc (Zn), and 18% Nickel (Ni), and it goes by various names depending on the sellers preferences: Nickel Silver, German Silver, Nickel Alloy, etc..


The CDA code number can be written in many different ways, as seen above, and yet mean the same thing. Using the CDA approved code for a specified Alloy ensures that the mix of metallic elements, that we are referring to, is the exact Alloy we mean so that there is no doubt. 


I have been unable to find a complete list of the CDA's standards and Alloy code numbers, on any of their websites. Most vendors use different terms for the same Alloy which quickly gets confusing so I compiled information from various websites, PDFs and tables into a table on my personal website entitled, 'Metal Alloy Table'.

For additional information and links please see the section entitled, 'Copper Development Association (CDA)' on my 'Metal Suppliers' resource page. 


Modern ID Codes for Copper Alloys

CDA#230: The modern alloy containing 85% Copper (Cu) and 15% Zinc (Zn), is referred to as Red Brass, Jeweler's Brass, NuGold, Jeweler's Bronze, etc..

CDA#260: The modern alloy containing 70% Copper (Cu) and 30% Zinc (Zn), is referred to as Yellow Brass or Cartridge Brass, etc..


Modern ID Codes for Copper Alloys: Bronze

CDA#521: The modern alloy containing 92% Copper (Cu) and 8% Tin (Sn) is Bronze and it is also referred to as Phosphor Bronze or Grade "C" Phosphor Bronze. 

CDA#521 is also significantly close to the proportions of tested extant Bronze items.



Forging an Ingot into Various
Shapes of Wire or Rod, Figure 2.
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Forging an Ingot into Various Shapes of Wire or Rod, Figure 2.

On a flat anvil, place your wire or rod while holding it with a pair of pliers, hammer from one end to the other along each corner's length and use consistent force. Rotate the wire or rod a quarter turn and repeat these steps until it has parallel sides and a polygon cross-section.


Stages:
Ingot > Square [4] > Octagon [8] > Hexadecagonal [16] > Triacontadigonal [32] > Circle


Anneal when the metal's length is doubled or the thickness is halved. Use the appropriate heat for the metal being used, immediately quench it in clean water. Use non-Ferris tweezers to place it in a warm pickle solution to remove any oxidation. Thoroughly wash the metal and dry the surface before continuing.  

Annealing returns work hardened metal to dead soft by returning its Ductility.

Remove the ragged ends with a saw or use a sharp cutting chisel. Rotate a 1/4 turn after each chisel strike and repeat until you cut through. Leaving the ragged ends could leave cracks or flaking that could get bigger as you work the metal causing a great deal of damage.

Late Anglo-Saxon Disk-Brooches. Part 6. (Enamelling Tools)

Goldsmithing and Enameling Tools: Iron Hoods / Muffles and Trays.

This is Part 6 of my series of blog posts related to my Late Anglo-Saxon Enamel Disk-Brooch project on the historical tools used in Goldsmithing and Enamelling from approximately the 2nd-century BCE until the middle of the 2nd-millennium CE.


Figures A to J.

I was inspired by the hood/muffle sets that two fellow Enamelers each fabricated and
based on Theophilus' description from, 'On Diverse Arts'. A couple of years ago I saw the set made by THL Alys Treeby, my Apprentice Belt-Sister, she's had multiple successful enamel firings on a Blacksmith's charcoal heated forge. Recently Sir Ælfwyn Langanwuda sent me photographs of the set she fabricated. This past weekend she was able to use it with great success on her period bead kiln that she's repurposed, previously she used a blacksmith's forge as a heat source. Both of their hoods are appropriately 3-inches in diameter.



In May of this year, Doug Colin Guyton fabricated for me a perforated, domed hood/muffle and tray (see Figure M.) based on my research of Theophilus' Treatise, ‘On Diverse Arts’. Both the domed extant and reproduction pieces have handles though shaped differently. Theophilus' description is of a flat tray similar to a pizza paddle, and the domed Georgian extant tray is concave, similar to a frying pan.

Figures K and L.


Over the next year I plan to experiment with my muffle set using a charcoal forge to solder, enamel and fuse. I hope to fabricate another domed muffle/hood as well as conical shaped ones, based on the extant finds of the “Iron hood, Vani, second half of the 2nd century B.C.”.


The hood/muffle and its tray are used on a charcoal forge (see Figures B and O) or with a furnace, both are smaller than what Blacksmiths use(d). They are placed on top of heated charcoal and other heated pieces of charcoal are piled a couple of inches high around the hood. Since the holes in the hood/muffle were punched from the interior outwards, the sharp edges of the cut and stretched metal point outwards, much like a cheese grater, and help reduce how much ash and particles can enter. The charcoal quickly heats the metal and interior space. Once the needed temperature range and time have been reached then the charcoal can be carefully brushed away from the sides and the entire hood/muffle and tray can be removed from the forge or furnace. 


"A copy of the Colchian cloisonné hood was made and tested, which showed that the Colchian “hood" is a goldsmith's tool – an iron muffle. If placed underneath a pile of burning coals as described by Theophilus, high temperatures are achieved inside the muffle and a highly skilled jeweler can perform work on glass, gold or silver." (Ermile Maghradze, Nature, June 2014)


I am researching the writings of three other historical figures in hopes of finding more information on the tools and techniques of pre-Renaissance soldering, fusing, and enameling techniques. I will continue to write blog posts of my experiments and findings over the coming year.



Figures M to P.

Figure A. 
Ermile Maghradze fabricating a Gold Cloisonné enameled medallion based on an extant find. 


Figure B. 
One style of “Colchian hood” being used for Georgian style enameling on a charcoal forge. The one shown above is a reproduction based on an extant find (see Figure K and L). 


Figure C. 
Ermile Maghradze placing Gold cloisons on the back plate. 


Figure D. 
The perforated, domed hood looks like Theophilus’ description in his Treatise, ‘On Diverse Arts’, though this extant Georgian base is concave, similar to a frying pan, instead of flat like a pizza paddle, as in his description. 


Figures E & F. 
“Iron hood, Vani, second half of the 2nd century B.C.”, a conical style of perforated muffle / hood and its base, displayed in the Georgian National Museum. 


Figures G to J. 
A variety of Georgian Cloisonné enameled pieces.


Figure K.
The various tools used for fabricating Georgian enameled pieces, several are extant finds (both hoods), others are modern recreations based on finds and research. 


This conical hood is very similar to the “Iron hood, Vani, second half of the 2nd century B.C.” from page 57 of the article. 


The perforated, domed hood looks like Theophilus’ description in his Treatise, ‘On Diverse Arts’, though this Georgian base is concave, similar to a frying pan, instead of flat as in his description.


Figure L.
"One very important archaeological discovery in Western Georgia was a perforated, cone-shaped iron “hood” and a tray discovered in 1966 in the remains of a city near Vani in the historical region of Colchis. We made a link between this artifact and a type of “hood” used to mount enamel, which had been described by Theophilus. In the chapter of the treatise that explains firing gold plate with mounted enamel, Theophilus describes a “hood” with a tray that a smith has to use to complete the firing. It is apparently very important that Theophilus is describing one of the types of muffles (a clay or iron box inserted into a furnace in order to fire an article) that was widespread in the medieval goldsmith workshops."
- from, Ermile Maghradze (2014) 'The Discovery of the “Colchian hood”, a tool that shaped the art of Medieval Cloisonné Enamel Technology', Museum. Georgian National Museum, N1, June 2014, 54-57.


Figure M.
This perforated, domed hood was fabricated by Doug Colin Guyton based on my research of Theophilus’ description from his Treatise, ‘On Diverse Arts’. 


The base of the domed Georgian extant set is concave, similar to a frying pan, instead of flat like a pizza paddle, as the version that Theophilus was familiar with.


Figures O and P. 
The conical hood is similar to the “Iron hood, Vani, second half of the 2nd century B.C.” from page 57 of the article in Nature. Its base does not have a handle like the domed hood.


Figure P.
The perforated, domed hood looks like Theophilus’ description in his Treatise, ‘On Diverse Arts’, though this Georgian base is concave, similar to a frying pan, instead of flat as above in our Theophilus reproduction.


Figures A thru J, N, O, and several quotes are from: 
Ermile Maghradze (2014) 'The Discovery of the “Colchian hood”, a tool that shaped the art of Medieval Cloisonné Enamel Technology', Museum. Georgian National Museum, N1, June, 54-57.


Figure M.
Photograph by Gaeira Aggadottir.


Figures K, L, and P.  
These images are from the Georgian National Museum’s website.

Etching...Uncovering the Hidden Image. Part 4

Figure 1. Chemical ‘Wet’ Etching,
Undercutting, and Resist Lifting
This is Part 4 of my series of blog posts on how to chemically Etch Copper Alloys using Toner Transfer Paper (TTP) or Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP, or PnP Blue) sheets as the main Resist. Please see Part 1 of this blog post series for general information and additional tips, several points are not repeated here.

This blog post adds details related to Part 3's figure, "The Process of Chemically Etching Copper Alloys", please see it for further details that are not repeated here.

[IMAGE]
Chemical ‘Wet’ Etching, Undercutting, and Resist Lifting

1. The Depth of the Etch is determined by: length of time, types of Metal and Etchants, as well as the strength / age / temperature of the Etchant. 

2. Narrower lines are shallower and thinner than (3.) Wider lines

4. Undercutting: The Metal is left in the Etchant for too long or it is too strong or new and it begins to erode away just under the resist’s edges causing an inconsistent and rough outer edge.

5. Resist Lifting: The Resist did not bond well enough to the surface, it either flakes or lifts off, the Etchant flows under and etches the new areas.


TO GO TO PART 1
TO GO TO PART 2
TO GO TO PART 3

Resource: My Video Tutorials and Demos on Vimeo

Gaeira's Anvil...Videos
You can now find my Video Tutorials and Demos on my Vimeo page, Gaeira's Anvil...Videos

I will be uploading my videos on my Vimeo page instead of on fb and posting information and a link as I make and upload new ones.

Please leave constructive criticism so I can improve my future video sessions. The 4 current ones, which were previously posted on FB, will most likely be replaced at some point with updated versions as I improve my video making skills.

https://vimeo.com/gaeirasanvil

Late Anglo-Saxon Disk-Brooches. Part 5 (Display 1)

Figure 1. Close up.
This is Part 5 of my series of blog posts related to my Late Anglo-Saxon Disk-Brooch research and fabrication Project. Part 1 is a general history of the disk-brooches that my research and fabrication project centers around.
On Sunday, August 4, 2019 I participated for the first time in the 22nd Annual Known World Arts & Sciences Display at Pennsic 48 with phase 1 of my La
te Anglo-Saxon Enamel Brooch Project. From 1pm to 5pm I was one among a few dozen artisans displaying their projects from across the SCA Known World. 


The 9 glass bottles on the right half of the display are of my White Paste experiments which I'll be writing a blog post about in the near future. 

The colorfully filled glass bottles on the left half of the table are the enamels that I made from hand grinding several soft glass 
Lampworking rods of CoE 104 glass. [See Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4 of this blog series for more details.] The back row are the first 5 colors of glass rods that I ground. They were unfortunately contaminated from the marble mortar and pestle I used when I started this project. The front row of 6 enamels were entirely hand ground using a Stainless Steel mortar and pestle and fired beautifully as enamels. I switched to Stainless Stell once I read a passage from Cellini's Treatise in which he mentions using Steel, this made a great difference.

Figure 2. Full display.

It was far too windy to put out either the small Sterling Silver bezels I enameled, the glass beads I set with White Paste in bezel settings, and sample pieces of the 
glass rods. I will need to attach them to a sturdy backing before St. Eligius Arts & Sciences Competition in mid November, hosted by the Barony of Dragonship Haven, so they can be seen without risking their loss to wind or by getting tipped over.

These are 3 of the 4 currently printed out binders of my research sources. I've found other papers that I need to print out.

The two cutting chisels and Muffle set were made by Doug Colin Guyton. The overall muffle design is based on my research of both Theophilus and Cellini's Treatises. The muffle top is also very similar to one of the extant finds of Georgian enameling muffle covers in the Georgian National Museum.



Etching...Uncovering the Hidden Image. Part 3

Figure 1. The Process of Chemically Etching Copper Alloys
This is Part 3 of my series of blog posts on how to chemically Etch Copper Alloys using Toner Transfer Paper (TTP) or Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP, or PnP Blue) sheets as the main Resist. Please see Part 1 of this blog post series for general information and additional tips, several points are not repeated here.

This blog post expands on the description in Part 1's figure, "5. Piece in Etching Solution; areas unprotected by Resist will be etched away, the metal being removed is Orange", please see it for further details that are not repeated here.

[IMAGE]
The Process of Chemically Etching Copper Alloys

1. Etchant / Etching Solution
2. Floater of Styroform
3. Tape, etc. attaches metal to Floater
4. Metal with Resist
5. Particles etched away
6. Heat Source
7. Vibration / Agitation


Dark Yellow = Etchant Solution.  Ferric Chloride => Copper Alloys;   Ferric Nitrate => Silver Alloys.

Dark Grey = Resist, is Toner, a Plastic not an Ink, from a HP Laser B&W Printer.

Purple = Added Resist (Nail Polish, Tape, etc.), to protect surfaces from Etchant.

Light Grey = Mounting or other Tape, Glue, etc., to attach Metal to the Floater.

Medium Grey = Floater to keep the Resist covered Metal suspended in Etchant.

Yellow = Metal being Etched, must first be cleaned properly.

Orange = Metal that is removed by the Etchant.


TO GO TO PART 1
TO GO TO PART 2

Late Anglo-Saxon Disk-Brooches. Part 4 (Enamel)

Fig 1. Fired Hand-made Enamel Bezel Cups.
This is Part 4 of my series of blog posts related to my Late Anglo-Saxon Disk-Brooch Project. Please see Part 2 of my series for information on my reasons for experimenting with Flameworking glass rods and turning them into a fine powder which can be used as Vitreous Enamel. Part 3 covers my first series of experiments on breaking down the rod sections into smaller pieces and then grinding, rinsing, drying, sifting, and storing the fine glass particles of each color of glass. Part 1 is a general history of the disk-brooches that my research and fabrication project centers around.


A few lessons learned:


It's impressive the huge difference various tools can make when compared to one another. 



Contamination from the Marble Mortar and Pestle caused Light flecks 

My hand-ground Enamel was also contaminated with white and clear particles (Fig 1, 4, and 5)The significant differences can be seen between the bottom most red enameled bezel cup (Fig 1), which was ground only using the Stainless Steel mortar and pestle (Fig 2), and ALL of the other samples, which were ground mainly with the Stone mortar and pestle (Fig 3), which is possibly made of Marble, before switching to the Stainless Steel set (Fig 2)
Fig 2.  Stainless Steel mortar and pestle

It turned out that the Stone's hardness wasn't as high as we thought compared to that of the glass being used. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find, 
when I searched online using Google, what the range of hardness was for CoE 104 (Coefficient oExpansion) Lampworking 'soft' glass rods. Looking at the "Mohs Scale of Hardness", ". . . glass rates about 5.5, and a steel needle is a 6.5. Most Granites rate about a 7 in the scale while most marbles, limestones, travertines rate in the 3 area." [Source; accessed 2June2019], "Stainless Steel 5.5-6.3" and "Soda (soft) Glass 4.5, Glass 4.8-6.6" [Source; accessed 2June2019].

Switching to using a Stainless Steel mortar and pestle (Fig 2) made a significant improvement, both in the speed and ease of breaking and finely grinding the Flameworking glass rods into 80-mesh Vitreous Enamel. 

Fig 3.  Stone mortar and pestle.
Theophilus, in his treatise, "On Diverse Arts", doesn't specify which materials to use for either the mortar or pestle. This is most likely due to him expecting his contemporary reader to know and own the appropriate one(s). 

Benvenuto Cellini advises in "The Treatise of Benvenuto Cellini on Goldsmithing and Sculpture", "a little round mortar of well-hardened steel, and about the size of your palm...with a little steel pestle specially made for the purpose of the necessary size." (Fig 2)

I had started to grinding all of my Flameworking Glass rods with the Stone mortar and pestle 
(Fig 3) which looks like white 'marble' with pale grey veins. I found that grinding the CoE 104 Flameworking glass was quickly causing wear and tear to the mortar, but especially to the bottom concave curve of the pestle. 

Switching to only using a Stainless Steel mortar and pestle (Fig 2) made a significant improvement by eliminating additional contamination from the Stone mortar and pestle's surfaces (Fig 3).

Unfortunately, rinsing out the ground up glass multiple times did not remove the contamination
, it stayed and caused, at a minimum, color issues and a great deal of very fine white speckles throughout all the colors, as can be seen in the photograph (Fig 1). I do not know what possible chemical interactions could have occurred during the firing that reached 1,500F.
Fig 4. Rows #1 & #4 are Stoned,
The photos are at two different angles.

I started to stone the highest surface with 150 and 220-grit Alundum Stones so that the glass and metal would be uniformly level (Fig 4. 
Rows #1 & #4 are Stoned in all 5-colors). Quickly it was obvious that additional enamel layers needed to be added so that the center of the concave glass, concave meniscus (Fig 4), could be filled in and raise closer to being level with the bezel cup's walls. This would help reduce how much metal and glass would need to be stoned away to complete the stoning stage.

Once I've added sufficient layers of enamel I will need to finish: stoning, pickling (pickle is a mild acid solution that removes oxides from the oxidized Sterling Silver), flash fire (to make the glass shiny once more), and polish the Sterling Silver bezel cups to complete the process.



The importance of using the correct temperatures
Fig 5. Melted Bezel Cups

The hand-ground Lampworking (soft) glass that I made in five Anglo-Saxon colors, which has a CoE 104, was sifted so that it is the standard 80-mesh size that Thompson Enamels sells. This hand-made enamel was wet packed in multiple thin layers within the Sterling Silver Bezel cups and fired each time an additional layer was added. The Bezels melted in the Kiln when it reached approximately 1,700F, it is usually set to 1,500F (Fig 5). 

If Copper and either Fine Silver (99.999% Cu) or Sterling Silver (92.5% Ag and 7.5% Cu) are physically touching one another when they reach their melting points then the Silver will look like it is melting into the Copper or look like it is being absorbed by the Copper. The Silver (Ag) atoms slide within Copper's (Cu) crystal lattice. Silver and Copper are Eutectic [also called, Eutectic System].

This can be prevented if there is a layer of glass / vitreous enamel
 between the Copper and Silver, *Enamelers call it 'Flux'. As soon as the glass is thinned away over several firings and leaves a bare spot, during the needed temperature range, then the Silver atoms "slide" into the Copper (Cu) crystal lattice. 


* 'Flux' in Enameling is clear glass enamel, but it should NOT be confused with what Metalsmiths are referring to as Flux, which can be made in different ways, but usually it's a solution of Borax mixed with water. Flux (Borax, etc.) helps prevent oxides on hot metals from forming, molten metals flow better, the solder binds to the metals and flow more easily.


Silver and Copper has are Eutectic [also called, Eutectic System], both elements are Face-Centered Cubic (FCC) structures (scroll down to see a 3D image of the structure; "The face-centered cubic (fcc) has a coordination number of 12 and contains 4 atoms per unit cell." Source; or for a digital animation.)

Cu/Ag Eutectic System, "Copper and Silver are both FCC, but their lattice parameters and atomic radii are very different, so they have limited solubility in the solid state. There are two solid stable phases α and β, and at high temperatures there is a eutectic reaction where the solids α, β and the liquid coexist.", "Cu – Ag System, Cu: α phase, Ag: β phase", "Eutectic means “easily melted” in Greek." [Source; see slides 1-4]


Contamination from the Copper sheet causing Dark flecks

Fig 6. Flaked off Oxides from the Copper sheet that was
used as a support for the bezel cups during the kiln firing.
The dark flecks in the fired Enamel Bezel cups are from the flaking off of oxidized layers that were formed on the Copper sheet during the high temperatures reached within the kiln. 

I used the Copper sheet within the kiln to support the small Bezel cups during the firings. The metal mesh screen that is usually used on it's own to support Enamel pieces didn't properly support the Bezel cups so that they could remain flat (on the Left of Fig 5; Fig 6). The flaking black oxide layer can be seen underneath both the melted and whole bezel cups (Fig 5) and in the pile accumulated after the firings (on the Left of Fig 6). 


My Video of the Enameled pieces being removed from the kiln and cooling (on Facebook)


My short video is 3m25s long and shows a kiln firing of the hand-ground enamel I've been making from Flameworking glass rods.

The target kiln temperature is 1,500F for my enamels. At the start of the video the temperature is 1,450F (it might sound like I said 450F, but it's 1,450F) I open the kiln door to allow some of the built up hot air to vent out and get the kiln down to 1,250F. Once it's reached 1,250F (not 250F as it might sound like in the video) I gently place the Stainless Steel sheet, that's resting on the steel mesh frame, onto the kiln floor and close the door.

As soon as the temperature reaches 1,500F I carefully open the door and remove the sheet and metal frame with a pair of long pliers and place them gently on top of a ceramic tile. At the same time I'm wearing one heat protection glove on my dominate right hand that's holding the pliers, the heat is so high that even 5 to 10 seconds of exposure on my skin starts to sting.

The pieces change colors as they cool down from 1,500F. Once they are completely cooled they can be moved and worked on.


Part 5 of my series of blog posts will be about the results of firing the newest batch of Enamels that I've I made using just the Stainless Steel mortar and pestle. Once again I will not be mixing my Enamel with my Thompson Enamel powders due to the different CoE which could cause issues.

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I look forward to posting about my on going projects and research here. I would like to share with you links to my various online researc...