Etching...Uncovering the Hidden Image. Part 2

Heat Transferring the Toner Image onto Flat Metal

This is Part 2 of my series of blog posts on how to chemically Etch Copper Alloys using Toner Transfer Paper (TTP) or Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP, or PnP Blue) sheets as the main Resist. Please see Part 1 of this blog post series for general information and additional tips, several points are not repeated here.

This blog post expands on the description in Part 1's figure, "3. TTP / PnP Blue during Heat Transfer of Resist onto the Metal", please see it for further details that are not repeated here.


[IMAGE]
Heat Transferring the Toner Image onto Flat Metal

1.  Pressure and Weight helps the Resist to Heat Transfer and Bond to the Metal. 
The entire time I'm burnishing with the back of a metal teaspoon, I am also applying downwards pressure when I'm using a heat source below my sandwiched pieces. If I am using a clothing iron I need to press downward on the handle while smoothly moving it around.


2. TTP / PnP Blue w/ a mirror image of the design, printed w/ a HP B&W Laser Printer. Once Heat Transferred, the Toner, a plastic not an ink, is the main Resist. Temperature Range: 280F to 295F  [138C to 146C]  for approx. 90 to 150 seconds.


3. Flat Metal Sheet must first be properly cleaned of oils and dirt for a stronger bond.

The steps that I take to clean my metal: 

1. Wet a link free cotton pad or paper towel with either Denatured Alcohol or Isopropyl Alcohol (99.9% pure Anhydrous), make sure to wipe the entire surface you will be heat transferring the Toner / Resist onto as well as all the edges.
2. Use liquid Penny Brite or the paste version with a bit of added water to scrub the surface using your fingers, rinse off well, and air dry.
3. Repeat Step #1.
4. Do the water sheeting test by running cool water over the surface of the piece that you intend to heat transferring the Toner / Resist onto. See if the water covers the entire surface evenly to form a 'blanket' of water. If the water avoids certain ares then it means the surface isn't sufficiently clean and you must start at Step #1 again.

This is the same cleaning method I use before applying vitreous enamel onto metal.


*4. Folded-over Parchment Paper holds TTP or PnP Blue & Metal, aids burnishing.

The correct range of heat isn't the only important factor for the Resist / Toner to create a good bond between itself and the metal's surface, pressure / weight is also required. One way to accomplish this is through burnishing.

PLEASE see point #3 in Part 1 of this blog post series for further details that are not repeated here.


5. Heat Source: Electric Grill (5A Below), Clothing Iron (5B Above), etc.

There is a wide variety of equipment that you can use as your heat source. Electric Grills are advertised for cooking breakfast / brunch, they have a hard heating surface and usually a temperature dial. Some etchers use an electric press for T-Shirt Heat Press Transfers. 

Clothing irons are fine though they are best for small items. A laser thermometer is needed to measure the surface temperatures since they aren’t consistent across the entire surface. Most newer models have a safety switch that turns them off after a short time to prevent fires. Unfortunately, this causes havoc for our needs. If you can find an older model without the auto shot-off switch feature you are better off using that. Please pay EXTRA attention since it won’t turn itself off and can lead to accidents and fires. 


6. Use a flat and firm surface to lay everything on.
If your heat source is an Electric Grill, they already have a flat and firm surface to work on. If you are using a Clothing Iron as your source of heat then you need to work on a flat and firm surface. These surfaces aid in achieving a clean transfer, especially when using a clothing iron.


*EXTRA #4
Take a piece of Parchment Paper, the same type that is used in baking that's usually sold in rolls, cut it so that it is at least 2 inches wider and 2 inches longer than the 'sandwiched' together TTP / PnP Blue and metal sheet. Fold it in half, so one of the longest sides of the sandwiched pieces is snug against the fold line, and the sandwich is centered for the 3 open sides. 

This sleeve or folder helps keep the various layers in place, helps reduce the chances of anything shifting around during the heat transfer or burnishing, allows the burnishing tool (spoon, etc.) to glide smoothly when working close to the edges, and it also ensures that there is something for you to touch that isn’t hot to more easily manipulate the bundle (ex. flipping it over a few times, etc.).

Once the appropriate amount of time has passed, for the heat transfer to be successful, plunge the sandwiched pieces in a spacious container filled with cold water.


GO BACK TO PART 1
TO GO TO PART 3